The original Swan's Market. Photo courtesy of Swan's Market.

When the first railroad line linking California to the eastern part of the country was established in Oakland in 1869, the small town named after the oak tree was forever changed. It didn’t take long for businesses to populate the streets surrounding the railroad stop, and soon after the Oakland Free Market was born on Clay St. between 4th and 5th. That market set a precedent for other retail and food halls to occupy the area, known as Old Oakland. Swan’s, which opened in 1917, continues to serve the area with dining and shopping.

During the 20th century, Oakland’s growth continued north with government buildings, department stores (Emporium-Capwell), and car dealerships serving the needs of Oakland residents and those that had moved to the nearby suburbs. Both the Paramount Theatre and Fox Theater helped define the neighborhood known as Uptown, a destination for entertainment and dining that continues to see growth. Cities are ever-evolving, and it’s impossible to push pause on life, but Oakland continues to foster change and new ideas. We rounded up a few experiences that make each neighborhood unique. Two BART stations—12th St/Oakland City Center and 19th St/Oakland—offer a wealth of options.

Authentically Old Town

Art Galleries | 12th St/Oakland City Center

Oakland is known for supporting both emerging and established artists, and the Old Town and the Downtown area have several galleries worth visiting. Oakland Art Murmur, which promotes Second Saturdays every month, encourages art fans to visit the galleries in the area. After a three-year hiatus, Art Route Oakland is back and runs May 6-14. Use their map to track your gallery visits and enter to win prizes. Discounts on art purchases are available at participating galleries. Use E14 Gallery as a starting point. Take BART to 12th St/Oakland City Center and walk four minutes to 461 9th St.

African American Museum and Library at Oakland | 12th St/Oakland City Center

The city’s main library merged with the African American Museum and Library in 2002. Its uncirculated reference library is full of Oakland history, from the Black migration of the ‘40s-’70s to the Black Panther Party. Pop in during regular library hours and take a self-guided tour of the artifacts on display. Take BART to 12th St/Oakland City Center and walk eight minutes to 659 14th St.

Some of the diverse dishes served at Understory. Photo courtesy of Understory.

Equity in the Kitchen | 12th St/Oakland City Center

Understory, a new bar and restaurant that employs financial and social equity among its staff and serves food that represents a diverse group of cuisines, recently received the Emerging Leadership Award (2022) from the James Beard Foundation. The judges' panel notes the restaurant’s role as a leader in the industry for its values that include uplifting communities of color. It's a worker-led collaborative serving multicultural food in a bright and cheerful space. Take BART to 12th St/Oakland City Center and walk seven minutes to 528 8th St.

New neon signage at Mockingbird. Photo courtesy of Mockingbird.

Mockingbird | 12th St/Oakland City Center

Restaurant veterans William Johnson and Melissa Axelrod received a lot of praise recently for their commitment to pay their staff a true living wage at their restaurant. It was also noted that while other restaurants suffer from staffing shortages, Mockingbird experiences little staff turnover. Patrons of this quaint restaurant don’t seem to mind the equal tip pool where everyone working in the restaurant, whether or not they served you, receives an even distribution of nightly tips. It’s just one more reason to dine at this delicious spot. Take BART to 12th St/Oakland City Center and walk four minutes to 416 13th St.

Uptown Rises

A night of music at Crybaby. Photo courtesy of Crybaby.

Crybaby | 19th St/Oakland

Crybaby, which took over The Uptown, isn’t just another music venue where the beat takes over your body. The principals, who all have deep connections to the city, took painstaking steps to design a sound system that “will compel you to move” without a noise hangover. The space, named after John Waters’ movie, “Cry-Baby”, hosts local, independent acts. Take BART to 19th St/Oakland and walk two minutes to 1928 Telegraph Ave.

The scene at Two Pitchers. Photo courtesy of Two Pitchers.

Two Pitchers | 19th St/Oakland

One of Northwest’s most popular craft beer producers recently established itself in a large, industrial space in Uptown. They’ve reimagined the Radler, a brew most associated with fruit that can sometimes come off as overly sweet. The team behind Two Pitchers has perfected the beer-fruit balance by using fruit during the post-fermentation process. The taproom, the team’s first, offers food from Lovely’s. Enjoy their burger or hot dog in the beer garden, with a grapefruit Radler, and be a part of this popular scene. Take BART to 19th St/Oakland and walk nine minutes to 2344 Webster St.

A peek inside the remodeled Hi Felicia, previously the Daughter's Diner space. Photo courtesy of SFGate.

Hi Felicia | 19th St/Oakland

Fine dining isn’t dead, it's just been reimagined by Oakland resident Chef Imana who has taken her popular pandemic pop-up to a brick and mortar in Uptown. Her vision of “vulgar” fine dining has captured the attention of fans willing to commit to a three-hour dining experience where 12 courses will set you back $195. Please note, the restaurant is sold out months in advance so plan ahead for your visit. But don’t let the buzz get in the way of the food—it's stunning and elevated. Take BART to 19th St/Oakland and walk eight minutes to 326 23rd St.

One of the upstairs rooms at Baba's House. Photo courtesy of SF Chronicle.

Baba’s House | 19th St/Oakland

Baba’s House is a two-story multifunctional space with a restaurant on the ground floor and a snack shop, a mahjong game room, and a small music room upstairs. Serving a full spectrum of Asian cuisine, the chefs hope to be as inclusive and creative as possible with their menu. The snack bar is fully stocked with hard-to-find salty and sweet Asian treats. It’s a chill, cozy spot with options. Take BART to 19th St/Oakland and walk eight minutes to 410 15th St.

Where do you go in Old Town or Uptown?

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